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PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 3:00 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2011 1:22 am
Posts: 15
I've tap the wire from behind the cluster to get my rpm signal and the reading on the g2x dash is going a bit crazy when reaching high rev. Ok when idling... On the graph in the data link, noise seems to be the problem.

Where's the best place to get the signal on an Integra gsr 96? Car has a swap and run with hondata s200 (has been converted to obd1)... Be precise please, I'm no electronic wiz but can work my way if well explain...

thanks for help in advance!


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 9:47 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2011 1:22 am
Posts: 15
I know that in my car the signal come from the icm (blue wire on the distributor) but it is safe? In the manual it says: "DO NOT connect the yellow tachometer input wire directly to any part of the ignition coil. Doing so will result in damage to the G2X tachometer input circuitry".

There's the coil than it goes to ICM (ignition control module) then going to tach...


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 3:27 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2008 9:04 pm
Posts: 37
Location: McLean, VA
Has the same problem with my car and the G2X some years ago. Rather than fighting with the noise issue, the most reliable solution is to use a GMR sensor from Racepak which is a small inductive pickup that clamps onto a coil or injector line as a source for tach signal. A $50 solution that just flat works. I still have it in the car with the IQ3 today, and have used them in many other cars when the tach signal was too noisy. Lets of them are.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2011 5:16 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2011 3:17 am
Posts: 6
I have the same problem. Shift lights come on way before the shift point and flicker on and off.
Does not ramp up properly.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2011 7:15 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 8:25 pm
Posts: 42
If you're having trouble with noisy ignitions, consider using a "hall effect" sensor. Should cost a few bucks ($10-15 if I remember right..) from a place like digi-key. You'll need to fab a bracket to hold it close to your crank pulley, for instance, and attach a couple of small magnets to the pulley. It gives you a perfect square wave signal..

Since I'm not terribly handy and my car doesn't have much room between the firewall and the crank pulley, I'm using the MSD/Racepak "Mag" converter on my car (MSD 8132, I believe, can't remember the racepak part number.. Racepak was cheaper than most places when I bought mine, though!) which also works great. It's a Formula Vee with a Bosch coil/distributor with points/condenser.. Known for being noisy and hard to get a clean RPM signal. The Mag converter works perfectly!


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 5:08 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2011 3:17 am
Posts: 6
I just don't understand why my previous shift lights and even my ecm don't have this problem.
Only the iq3, it's eventapped into the same wire as the shift lights were.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 7:33 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 8:25 pm
Posts: 42
Different things need different signals.. Some hardware has built in filtering or are built to take a certain kind of signal.. The racepak stuff needs a clean square wave signal and the filtering or how to get the square wave signal is up to us, sort of. Ignition signals are sensitive little things, or can be in some cases :) ever tried installing megasquirt on a late 80's car or something like that? Pain in the butt!!


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